surfing

   

Surfing is perhaps my favorite past time for many reasons. Surfing is the best cure for any hard times that you may be going through emotionally or physically. While in the water I forget about all hardships that await me on land and focus purely at improving my skills at the sport I love all the while having fun.. The feeling of catching a wave big or small can’t be replicated ever. From the fast and violent takeoff where you are thrown off a ledge of water barley in control to when your fins finally catch and you can begin to pump down the line and gain a ton of speed. After that first bottom turn you can go up and hit the lip as it cascades toward you. If the conditions are especially good you may be able to get a tube ride where you are completely covered up by the wave and the feeling is complete bliss. While in the tube time seems to slow way down and you notice every drop of water cascade above and over you and you hear the wave breaking all around you as it sounds like a freight train is right on the tail of your board. more on surfign on my next post